Post-adoption advice

Have you just adopted a pet? Follow our advice on what to expect and how to adapt.

Advice after adopting a cat

Your new cat has been through a lot of stress in the last few weeks. Now that he’s in your home, he needs to acclimatize again. Change of routine is the most stressful thing for cats. Yours may want to hide, refuse to eat or drink, appear despondent or, on the contrary, overexcited. It may take a few days or weeks for your cat to get used to his new life.

Here are a few tips to make this transition easier:

For the first few days, set aside an enclosed room where he’ll feel safe with a cushion, his bowls and his litter box.
If you already have other pets, don’t let them interact just yet. They can smell each other through the door to get used to each other’s scents. Plan a gradual introduction.
Limit the rooms he can get into.
Don’t force it to come close to you. Take the time to tame it.
If you have children, never leave them unsupervised with your new cat. Don’t let the children hold it in their arms – the cat mustn’t feel trapped! If it shows signs of impatience or discomfort, the cat must be able to run away.
If you’ve decided to let your cat go outside, wait a few weeks until he’s acclimatized to your family before letting him out.

The change of environment and/or food is very stressful for the animal, and can cause small episodes of loose stools or diarrhea. These may last five to seven days. If they persist and the animal’s condition deteriorates (loss of energy and/or appetite), a veterinary consultation will be necessary.

Kitten: a kitten should eat a specific kitten food until the age of 12 months, as this provides the nutrients essential for its growth. After that, the kitten will switch to an adult food, as its activity level diminishes and its growth is virtually complete.

Adult cat: we suggest a dental food, which, thanks to the size of the kibbles, will have a preventive action on the appearance of tartar and therefore of oral diseases.
If your pet has a specific health problem, your vet will be able to advise you on the diet best suited to your pet’s medical condition.

In all cases, it is important to respect the quantities specified on the bag of food.

In addition to trimming its claws once a month, you’ll need to set up a claw post in your home.

Here are a few things you should know:

Choose a busy part of the house, like next to the sofa or in the hallway.
There are many different materials, and cats generally like them all: carpet, rope, cardboard, etc.
Avoid placing the claw post next to the litter box, as he won’t use it. The pheromones present in urine and in the glands under the paws are totally different.
If your cat doesn’t use his post, give him treats or catnip to encourage him.

The litter box is a place of cleanliness and intimacy, but it’s also the place where the cat feels most vulnerable. Accidents can happen, such as peeing or pooping outside the litter box, if it’s not placed in the right place, if the grains used aren’t suitable, or because of the stress of changing environment.

Here are a few tips to optimize your kitty’s chances of using the litter box:

Place the litter tray in a quiet area of the house, where he can see without being seen too much, but without putting it in an inaccessible place.
Forget litter box roofs: just as we don’t like strong toilet smells, neither do cats. Enclosing odors under a roof will make the experience even more unpleasant for your cat.
Choose a large, wide tray with fairly high sides if possible, as cats like to have plenty of room and be able to turn around without difficulty.
Choose unscented litter, as cats need to smell their own odors.
If you have several cats, you’ll need several litter boxes. Our little kitties hate having to share their toilet!

Rhinotracheitis comes to the fore at times of stress (changes in environment, visits to the vet) and resolves itself thanks to the cat’s immune system.
Sneezing, coughing, runny nose and runny eyes are among the most common clinical signs. This disease can be controlled and/or prevented by. annual vaccination. Being a herpes-type virus, it is intermittent and benign if the animal is in good general health.

When should you worry?
When the animal’s general condition deteriorates: reduced appetite, decreased energy, colored discharge (yellow or greenish). The best thing to remember is: when appetite goes, everything goes!

We’ve all known a cat with a tendency to bite when playing or being petted. This behavior is due to the fact that the kitten was taken too early from its mother, who didn’t have time to teach it to manage its emotional overload. It can also be explained by the way we play with him. Who hasn’t wiggled their finger to amuse the cute little kitten in front of us? Well, by making this seemingly innocuous gesture, you’re sending a clear signal: “Go ahead, you can hunt, my hand is prey. A fact that will remain engraved in his memory for the rest of his life, since cats are natural hunters. And where there’s a hand, there’s a skin. And skin means the whole body: ankles, arms, face and so on. If a kitten biting is rather adorable, it’s much less so when it becomes an adult with powerful jaws.

The best way to play with your cat is with an intermediate toy, separating your hand from the cat.

If, while petting your cat, you notice his tail flapping frantically from left to right, this means: “Stop, I’ve had enough, you’re irritating me.” If you stop petting him, you’ll probably escape a bite. Above all, be patient and, if necessary, contact your veterinarian or a feline behaviorist if you have any problems with your new protege.

Advice after adopting a dog

Your new dog has been through a lot of stress in the last few weeks. Now that he’s in your home, he needs to acclimatize again. Your dog may want to hide, refuse to eat or drink, appear downcast or, on the contrary, overexcited. It may take a few days or weeks for him to get used to his new life.

Here are a few tips to make this transition easier:

Provide a calm environment so that he can establish a sense of security.
For the first few months, set aside a room where he will feel safe with a cushion, his bowls and toys.
Avoid forcing the dog to interact with you and give him the chance to manage his emotions on his own.
If you have children, never leave them unsupervised with your new dog.
For the first few nights, your dog may bark or cry. To reassure him, you can use a crate or put him in a room close to you.

Depending on your pet’s age, the type of feed may vary.

A puppy needs to eat food specific to his needs until the age of about six months to a year (depending on the breed).

A small dog will be able to switch to an adult food at around six to eight months. Conversely, a medium to large dog will need to stay on puppy food until around one year of age to meet his nutritional needs. Puppy food is rich in protein, which promotes healthy growth and provides all the nutrients your puppy needs.

For an adult, we suggest a dental food, as the coarseness of the kibble acts as an abrasive on the teeth, preventing tartar build-up and thus oral disease. Your dog can eat this food for the rest of his life without any problems. There are also diets designed for specific health problems, which your vet can advise you on.

When it comes to potty training, once again, you’ll need to be indulgent. Your new companion has just come from a shelter, where he wasn’t expected to be potty-trained at all costs, so if he occasionally escapes into the house, that’s normal. You’ll need to be understanding and patient with your new companion!

Since your dog doesn’t know his way in and out, take him out regularly, even if he’s not doing his business, to help him get his bearings. When he does his business in the right place, reward him! Your dog will quickly associate going outside with something positive.

Dogs are creatures of habit. Having a routine from the moment he arrives, such as feeding, exercising and going out for his needs, will help your dog adapt quickly. You need to wait for him to adapt to his environment and to you before you start training him. The golden rules of training are patience and consistency.

Does your dog have a behavior problem? Consult our fact sheets :

Lack of education
Separation anxiety
Biting potential
My dog is fearful
My dog doesn’t like other dogs
Reactivity on leash
Resource protection

If you’d like help, you can refer to a dog trainer or contact us.

Kennel cough is transmitted by close contact between dogs. Sneezing, coughing and nasal discharge are among the most frequent clinical signs. The disease comes to the fore at times of stress (environmental changes, visits to the vet) and often resolves itself thanks to the dog’s immune system. The administration of antibiotics is suggested in cases of fever or repeated coughing. This disease can be controlled and/or prevented by annual vaccination.

When should you worry?
When the animal’s general condition deteriorates: reduced appetite, decreased energy, yellow and/or greenish nasal discharge, excessive coughing leading to vomiting. The best thing to remember: When appetite goes, everything goes!

Advice after adopting a rabbit

Your new rabbit has been through a lot of stress in the last few days. Now that he’s in your home, he needs to acclimatize again. It may take a few days or weeks before he feels at home.

We recommend giving him a small space for the first few days, to ease his integration. An enclosure in a bedroom might be a good place to start.

Important: you should be concerned about your rabbit’s condition if it fails to eat and/or stool for 24 hours.

Rabbit life expectancy is 7 to 10 years.
Rabbits are recommended for families with older children, as they are physically fragile.
To be happy, rabbits must live in an enclosure or in total freedom.

HAY: Hay must be available at all times, as it represents the basis of your rabbit’s diet. You should feed as much hay as your rabbit is big enough to eat. Hay should be placed close to the bedding.

VEGETABLES: Every day, offer about 2 cups of vegetables for a 6-pound rabbit. It’s important to introduce new vegetables gradually to avoid diarrhea. Here are the recommended and inadvisable vegetables for your rabbit.

GRANULES: Up to the age of 6 months, you can give your rabbit any amount of juvenile granules. After 6 months, you should limit the quantity to 1/8 cup per 6 pounds of rabbit weight. We recommend Oxbow brand food.

FRUIT: these should be considered as a treat to be given in small quantities (1 teaspoon a day): apples, pears, cherries, peaches and melon.

WATER: rabbits need fresh water every day. It’s best to use a heavy-bottomed bowl, as this is more respectful of the rabbit’s physiognomy when drinking.

Since rabbits need to jump and run, they benefit from living in an enclosure or in total freedom. After adoption, we recommend starting with an enclosure, so that the animal can gradually adapt to the environment.

Your rabbit’s enclosure should include: a litter box with hay, a water bowl, hiding places, objects to chew on, several landings and a comfortable surface for his paws (ground mattress, blanket, towel). There are many ways to create a rewarding rabbit enclosure. Here are a few examples.

You can buy a cat litter tray, but only use vegetable litter grains and never clumping litter.

Under no circumstances should you use wood shavings, since they irritate the respiratory tracts of rabbits and small animals.

Rabbits are active animals that need to jump and run. It therefore needs an enclosure large enough to allow it to do so throughout the day. If your rabbit lives in an enclosure, you’ll need to offer it daily outings in total freedom.

Being prey, rabbits are cautious and nervous by nature. That’s why it doesn’t particularly like to be held, as it feels captured. So we need to tame this animal gently to teach it to trust us. All the same, it’s a curious, intelligent animal with a strong character.

It likes to live with other rabbits or other species such as cats and dogs (provided they don’t predate). However, it should not be allowed to live with ferrets or guinea pigs.

Rabbits can be potty-trained, especially if they have been sterilized. Rabbits should eat their so-called caecotrophic stools (softer morning stools), which are rich in nutrients.

Discover rabbit body language here.

Even before adopting a rabbit, it’s very important to know which veterinarians in your area treat this species, as they are few and far between.

Regular care for your rabbit includes claw trimming, brushing and access to objects to file teeth.

The most common health problems are :

Pasteurellosis: a bacterial disease that needs to be treated with antibiotics. It is highly contagious to other rabbits and guinea pigs. Signs: runny nose, eyes, sneezing, head bowed, loss of appetite.
Pododermatitis: rabbits’ heels can become ulcerated and painful if the rabbit is in a place that is too humid (urine) or directly on a wire fence.
Tooth malocclusion: a tooth tip can form and cause ulcers or abscesses in the gums.
Gastrointestinal stasis: cessation of intestinal transit. If the animal doesn’t have a bowel movement for 24 hours, it’s time for an emergency!

Resources :
https://www.ladureviedulapinurbain.com/index.php
http://www.birdandexoticvet.com/species_rabbit_fr.php
https://www.facebook.com/groups/LesLapinsduQuebec

Advice after adopting a small animal

Interesting facts

Life expectancy 8 to 10 years
A nocturnal animal, it sleeps during the day and becomes more active in the evening and at night.
It has no claws but nails.
It may not be the ideal animal for a noisy home. Their hearing is highly developed.

Power supply

Chinchillas are vegetarians. You should feed it mainly with 1/8 cup a day of a specialized chinchilla feed (different rations for pregnant females and babies). We recommend Oxbow food and advise against mixed seeds. Chinchillas are nocturnal animals and should be fed in the evening. Hay is an essential part of his diet, and he should have plenty of it. Fresh water must be available at all times. Since they have a fragile digestive system, it’s best to introduce fruits and vegetables gradually. Once accustomed to them, chinchillas can have them every day (try not to exceed one cup a day, and recommend leafy green vegetables).

Recommended for: spinach, lettuce, asparagus, broccoli, strawberries, turnips, oranges, peppers, cucumbers, parsnips.
Avoid: chocolate, very sweet foods, seeds, avocados, potatoes, carrots and fresh fruit, which are too high in sugar.
Treats: give only 1 tsp. a day of dried fruit Important: a chinchilla that doesn’t eat for 24 hours or doesn’t have a bowel movement should be seen by a veterinarian as a matter of urgency.

Care special

Provide a sand bath for 10 to 15 minutes every day. Don’t leave him permanently in his environment, otherwise he’ll relieve himself there and won’t want to use it to clean himself.
Never get him wet! His coat is too dense and this could cause moisture problems on the skin.

Cage and environment

Chinchillas are gregarious animals, but can be kept alone. If you adopt more than one, it’s important that the animals are sterilized to avoid unwanted litters.

Chinchillas need a large cage so they can run, dig and explore. A high cage with several levels is ideal for jumping. Place the cage in a quiet, draught-free area, away from other animals in the house.

In the cage you will need :

Substrate for the bottom of the cage in recycled newspaper from Carefresh or yesterday’s news (do not use wood shavings).
A bottle or bowl of water and a bowl of food
One or more hiding places (e.g. cardboard box)
A large exercise wheel (without bars if possible)
Toys to chew on: apple tree branches, paper rolls

Exercises and toys

To handle the animal, it’s best to let it come towards you. Make sure you hold it by the rump and shoulders. A chinchilla that doesn’t like to be picked up will try to run away and shed a lot. Every day, take your pet out of its cage into a closed room. Keep an eye on your pet as it leaves the cage, to prevent it from escaping or looting objects around the house.

Interesting facts

Life expectancy 6 to 8 years.
If properly tamed, hedgehogs can be charming pets that don’t sting at all.
Its vision is very poor, almost non-existent, but its sense of smell and hearing are highly developed.
Never cut a hedgehog into a ball, as this could injure it. Instead, try a little circular caress on its back while talking softly to it.
The hedgehog’s quills represent around 35% of its body mass, and it uses them to defend itself.

Power supply

Good quality hedgehog or insectivore feed is by far the best option for this animal. As this food is sometimes hard to find, it’s possible to use feed for less active cats. There’s still one rule when it comes to feed, however: hedgehogs must be rationed and the menu supplemented with other foods. When choosing a feed, avoid those of lesser quality whose first ingredient is a vegetable.

Fruits and vegetables complete the menu, as do a variety of insects (mealworms, crickets, silkworms). It’s important to make sure that the insects are farm-raised, not wild-caught.

A basic menu for a medium-weight hedgehog might consist of 1 to 3 tsp. of feed, 1 to 2 tbsp. of fruits and vegetables and 3 to 5 insects (3 to 4 times a week). Pregnant and nursing females and growing young are fed as much as they want.

By weighing your hedgehog regularly, you can find out whether he’s eating the right amount.

Cage and environment

The hedgehog is an active animal that needs to move and explore. It loves to climb, dig and run. Given the chance, they can travel great distances in their wheel, an indispensable accessory. You can house him in a large wire cage with a plastic bottom, or better still, use large plastic tubs linked together by PVC tubing. Hiding places are essential.

Hedgehogs are sensitive to the cold. A small fleece blanket and a heating mat placed under the cage (never inside) will be appreciated. Hedgehogs prefer temperatures between 24 and 29°C. When the ambient temperature falls below 18°C, the hedgehog may go dormant. Its body becomes cold. It responds little or not at all to stimuli, and appears to be in shock. If found in this state, it should be warmed up and a veterinarian consulted.

Care special

Bath as needed: hedgehogs’ paws are easily soiled with feces when they run in their wheels. Hedgehogs normally enjoy being bathed.

Exercises and toys

The hedgehog doesn’t play like a dog or cat, looking for interaction. It is a nocturnal animal that sleeps mainly during the day. You can still wake him up to spend some time with him, but he may be a little grumpy. You should also bear in mind that after several minutes of play, he’ll want to go back to sleep, and you’ll have to respect that. However, he’s very curious and loves to explore, climb, pull and push things. The toys provided for the hedgehog are designed to keep him busy and provide him with interesting activities.

Examples of toys:

Toys in raw, untreated leather.
Sinew bone for dogs.
Paper bag.
Small toys for children on wheels (trucks, cars): like to push them.
Magazine: likes to shred them and pile the pieces in its nest.
Cat balls with or without bell: he pushes it with his muzzle. Cat toys.
Cardboard boxes: he hides in them and explores. If they’re stacked, he climbs them. When several are connected by tunnels and ramps, he’s in for a real treat. He’ll work hard to find a few treats hidden here and there.
PCV tubing or transparent dryer hose.
Large rocks, bricks or blocks of wood for climbing.

Behavior

When angry, the hedgehog grunts as it raises the quills on its forehead and charges at the insulting object or animal. If it’s really frightened, it curls up into a tight ball, all its quills raised. It then becomes inaccessible.
Hedgehogs are strict loners. Occasionally, two females can get along, but this association is unnatural and not recommended.

At first sight, hedgehogs can be very shy, but with a gentle approach and a lot of socialization, they can become very friendly. Nervous by nature, it will take some time to adapt and come out of its shell.

Interesting facts

Life expectancy 5 to 7 years
Vocalises a lot when excited or unhappy
Nervous animal that bites little, but may do so when mishandled.

Power supply

You should feed your guinea pig a diet made up of guinea pig feed. We recommend the Oxbow brand, and advise against feeding mixed grains. On average, you should feed 1/8 cup of pellets per day. At all times, your pet should have access to fresh water and hay (the amount of hay may depend on the size of the guinea pig). You can offer a minimum of 1 cup of vegetables and a maximum of 1 teaspoon of fruit daily:

Recommended vegetables and fruit: green peppers, peas, apples, oranges, grapes, green leafy vegetables.
Vegetables and fruit to avoid: iceberg lettuce, potatoes and cabbage

Guinea pigs need vitamin C, which can be provided by a slice of orange, a small piece of broccoli or bell pepper a day, or by a supplement in the form of a lozenge to be added to water or a chewable tablet.

Guinea pigs under 6 months of age and pregnant females have different requirements. Ask your vet for more information.

Care special

Regularly trim claws
Look at the animal’s teeth for malocclusion

Exercises and toys

You can take the animal out to a room or pen for exercise. It’s important to supervise him at all times to prevent him from running away or lunging at objects.

When the animal is in its cage, you should provide enrichment such as :

Pipes and cardboard boxes
Wooden toys for cheating

Cage and environment

Guinea pigs are social animals who like to live in small groups (make sure you don’t put males and females together). Females cohabit well together, but males need to be accustomed to living together at a young age.

It’s best to have them live in an enclosure or a very large cage if the animal has daily outings. Place the cage in a quiet spot, away from drafts and temperature variations. The cage should be at least 4 cubic feet in size, with a solid bottom and no wire mesh. The cage should always have substrate (never wood shavings), a water bowl, a food bowl, toys and a hiding place for resting moments.

Interesting facts

Life expectancy 6-8 years
They don’t gnaw on furniture, but they do tend to hide in the smallest nooks and crannies, so it’s important to make your home “ferret-proof”.
All ferrets in Quebec are sterilized and deglanded
Ferrets under one year of age have a nasty tendency to swallow anything they find, such as earplugs or anything made of rubber. Unfortunately, this often ends up in surgery to remove foreign bodies.

Power supply

Like cats, ferrets are carnivores. You need to feed your pet mainly a good-quality, specialized ferret food. It’s important to make a gradual transition from food given at the shelter to food given at home. The ferret must have access to food at all times. Treats should be occasional. Offer good-quality ferret or cat treats: check the packaging to make sure they do not contain fruit or vegetables.

Recommended: watermelon, cucumber, banana, boiled egg
Avoid: chocolate, corn, raw meat, vegetables and fruit

Care special

Cut his claws
Give him a bath with pet shampoo only if your ferret doesn’t smell good.
If you take your ferret outside (in harness and on a leash), we recommend preventive treatment against fleas and internal parasites from April to October. Your vet will be able to prescribe easy-to-administer drops on his skin once a month, provided he has had a check-up within the year.

Cage and environment

Ferrets are very playful and curious animals. That’s why they need a large, high cage where they can run, dig and explore. Since ferrets sleep an average of 20 hours a day, place the cage in a quiet, draught-free area, away from other animals in the house.

In the cage you will need :

Newspaper in the bottom of the cage
Litter made from recycled newspaper substrate. Never use clumping cat litter!
A bowl of water and a bowl of food
One or more hiding places (e.g. cardboard boxes)
A hammock
Toys (make sure they’re not too small)

Exercises and toys

Since ferrets are very playful, you need to take them out for a minimum of 2 hours a day. Keep an eye on your pet as it goes out, as ferrets love to sneak into small places and may even relieve themselves there. Ferrets are also notorious for stealing things, so be careful what you leave lying around the house! Ferrets get on very well with cats and dogs. However, it’s important to be present when the animals come into contact with each other. Under no circumstances should ferrets be left unsupervised with very young children or prey animals (e.g. rabbits, rodents, birds, etc.), as ferrets are predators.

Interesting facts

Life expectancy 3 to 5 years
Recommended for families with children aged 5 and over
Low-biting animal

Power supply

You should feed your pet mainly specialized gerbil food. We recommend Oxbow food and do not recommend food made from mixed seeds. Fresh water must be available at all times. Offer a small piece of vegetable every day. Offer pieces of fruit every 2-3 days.

Recommended: peas, broccoli, carrots, apples, bananas
Avoid: chocolate, onions, candies

Cage and environment

Gerbils are sociable animals that like to live in pairs (make sure you don’t put males and females together).

Since gerbils love to chew, a metal cage is preferable. Place the cage in a quiet spot, away from drafts and temperature variations. For the cage, you’ll need :

Substrate in the bottom of the cage (2 inches) made of recycled paper (avoid wood shavings).
A bottle of water and a bowl of food
A hiding place
Chew toys (cardboard boxes and pipes)
Paper towels or tissues to make a nest
An exercise wheel
Hay enrichment

Care

Each day you must :

Clean substrate soiled by excrement and urine
Feeding him
Taking it out of its cage

Each week you must :

Clean the cage completely

Exercises and toys

Every day, take your pet out of its cage in a closed room. Keep an eye on your pet throughout the outing to prevent it from escaping or looting objects in the house. Give your pet something to chew on, such as cans or rolls of cardboard.

Never hold your gerbil by the tail, as this could injure it.

Interesting facts

Life expectancy 2 to 3 years
An animal that sleeps during the day and is awake at night. So don’t wake it up during the day.
Not recommended for children under 6, as hamsters tend to bite.
They can enjoy sand baths just like chinchillas!
They can be relatively clean

Power supply

You need to feed your pet a specialized hamster food. We recommend Oxbow food and do not recommend food made from mixed seeds. Hamsters are nocturnal animals, so you need to feed them in the evening. Hamsters store food in their jowls and hide it in their nests. Fresh water must be available at all times. Every 2-3 days, offer a small portion of fruit or vegetables:

Recommended: spinach lettuce, carrots, apples, asparagus, broccoli, strawberries, turnips, oranges, peppers, apples, dried flowers.
Avoid: chocolate, onions, beans, potatoes

You can offer hay as enrichment for your hamster.

Cage and environment

Hamsters need to live alone, as they tend to attack each other when there are several of them.

Hamsters need a large cage (Tank type) so they can run, dig and explore. Place the cage in a quiet, draught-free spot away from other animals in the house. In the cage you’ll need :

Substrate for the bottom of the cage in recycled newspaper (do not use wood shavings). Put about 15 to 20 cm of litter in the whole cage for maximum comfort and so that he can dig tunnels.
A bottle of water and a bowl of food
One or more hiding places (e.g. cardboard box)
Paper towels or tissues to make a nest
An exercise wheel (without bars if possible)
Toys to play with

Exercises and toys

Every day, take your pet out of its cage in a closed room. Keep an eye on your pet as it leaves the cage, to prevent it from escaping or looting objects around the house.

Interesting facts

Life expectancy 2 to 3 years
Rats gnash their teeth when they’re happy or in pain
Rats have glands behind their eyes which, in times of pain or stress, can secrete a reddish substance through the nose or eyes, not to be confused with blood.
Adult rats live very well together. It’s just a matter of gradual integration.

Power supply

You should feed your pet mainly a specialized rat food. We do not recommend food made from mixed seeds. Every 2-3 days, offer a small portion of fruit, vegetables or non-greasy table food. It may be a good idea to hide these foods in the cage so that the rat has to work to eat them. Introduce one new food at a time to prevent the digestive system from becoming unbalanced.

Recommended: peas, carrots, apples, bananas, romaine lettuce, coriander, parsley, broccoli (broccoli and cabbage can cause gas).
Avoid: chocolate, corn, cheese, chips, salty/sweet foods

You can also offer hay (Timothy, Botanical) to enrich its environment and enable it to build nests.

Rats are predisposed to obesity, so we recommend putting their food bowl on the floor where they don’t sleep. Calculate food portions, don’t feed ad libitum.

Cage and environment

Rats are very social animals and need to live in groups of at least two (make sure you don’t put males and females together). Females cohabit well together, but males need to have been accustomed to living together at a young age. Rats need a large cage in which to run, dig and explore. Ferret cages, or one-story cages, make wonderful habitats for rats. Place the cage in a quiet, draught-free spot away from other animals in the house. In the cage you’ll need:

Substrate for cage floor made from recycled newspaper (do not use wood shavings)
A bottle of water, a bowl of water and a bowl of food
One or more hiding places (e.g. cardboard boxes)
Paper towels or tissues and/or hay to make a nest
An exercise wheel is appreciated (without bars if possible). It should be large enough so that the rat’s back doesn’t bend into it.
Toys to play with
Avoid anything dusty or perfumed, as their lungs are very fragile.

Exercises and toys

Rats are curious, friendly and highly intelligent animals. Don’t be surprised if your rat wants to spend time on your lap or neck. Every day, take your pet out of its cage into a closed room. Keep an eye on your pet as it leaves to prevent it from escaping or looting objects around the house.

Interesting facts

Life expectancy 1? to 2? years.
Mouse urine has a fairly strong odor, but the odor of female urine is much less pronounced.
Avoid putting two males in the same cage, as they are likely to fight and injure each other. Females bred together get along well and can live together.

Power supply

As mice are nocturnal animals, we recommend feeding them and changing their water in the evening. His diet consists of 80% mouse feed mix and 20% seeds, plus a small amount of vegetables (broccoli, peas, carrots, sweet potatoes, kale, squash or peppers). Avoid overly sweet foods and fruit, which can cause digestive problems. You can also offer him timothy hay and occasionally give him natural, unsweetened cereals as treats. Finally, make sure she always has fresh water.

Cage and environment

A cage with small wire mesh (1 cm or less) and a plastic bottom, or an aquarium with a wire mesh lid, makes a good environment for the small rodent. Mice need a cage with a minimum surface area of 600 cm². Being a very active animal, mice need plenty of space to stay in shape. We even recommend a multi-level cage. Shredded paper or paper disks(care fresh) are good substrates to put at the bottom of the cage. Hard substrates such as corn cobs, compressed recycled paper or the like are uncomfortable and should be avoided.

Exercises and toys

To keep your mouse busy and have a well-appointed cage, there are many possible accessories:

Stash: cardboard box, half a coconut upside down with a large hole, rattan finch nest, small natural wicker basket.
Exercise wheels: prefer those with a solid running surface, as wire mesh is less comfortable for the feet. The diameter should be sufficient to prevent the animal from bending its back abnormally backwards when using it. Moreover, if there are several mice in the cage, more than one wheel should be installed.
Wooden ladders.
Large hanging ropes or rope bird perches.
Paper bag filled with dry hay.
A crumpled ball of paper in which a treat is hidden.

Behavior

Mice are easy to tame. It may be nervous on first approach, but a good-tempered, well-socialized mouse will let itself be taken without trying to bite, and will agree to stay in your hands.

Since it is a diurnal rodent, its activity is essentially nocturnal. As such, mice spend their days resting. Waking or disturbing them at this time can damage their health and make them aggressive. However, it’s a lovable animal, very rarely naughty. As a bonus, it’s a very clean rodent.

A very sociable and gregarious rodent, your mouse will particularly enjoy the company of other mice. You must avoid from put 2 males together, especially once they have become

adults. In a group of mice, the subordinate individual may have the hair on his face or front legs shaved off by the dominant mouse. If the dominant mouse can be identified, it is removed from the group. It is also possible to provide more hiding places and enlarge the territory (larger cage).

In the wild, mice deposit tiny droplets of urine on the ground as they walk. In this way, they can quickly find their way back if danger arises. In captivity, they retain this behavior, especially when running in their exercise wheel. This accessory is therefore largely responsible for the odor emanating from the cage. The cage must be cleaned frequently.

Advice after adopting a bird

Character

Green-cheeked conures are affectionate little creatures, who generally like to nestle in the hollow of our hand or neck. They’ll sneak in anywhere: up our sleeves, in our sweaters, under our blankets – they love to feel our presence close to them. This personality trait makes them very endearing. They are loyal and devoted to their favorite humans. They’re cuddly little birds who don’t take long to come and give kisses. Conures have been known to lie easily on their backs in their human’s hand. They love to sleep in little tents designed expressly for this purpose.

Living with a small conure is a bit like living with a toddler. Children can be inquisitive, energetic, noisy and always where they don’t belong doing things they shouldn’t be doing. If you give them the chance, conures will act the same way. Because of their inquisitive nature, you always have to keep an eye on them, trying to predict before they do what they’re going to do. They have a habit of exploring things they shouldn’t go near. They’re often too adventurous and it can be risky for them. Take the time to explore your home and identify anything that could be dangerous for a little beak eager to chew. Beware of electrical wires, hot stove rings, toilet bowls, unordered cleaning products, cushions and blankets in which he could hide, poisonous plants, etc.

On the vocal side, they are notoriously noisy for their size. The noise is not comparable to that of a macaw or a cockatoo, but it can still be annoying. The number of decibels increases exponentially with the number of conures we own.

Despite all these characteristics, it would seem that the genus Pyrrhura, of which the green-cheeked conure is a member, is quieter by nature than the genus Aratinga (another widespread subspecies of the conure family) … Lucky you!

Often considered the next step for someone wanting a large parrot, the green-cheeked conure has all the personality of the large parrot, but compacted into a small body. They have so much to offer – they’re interactive, fun, intelligent and demanding – that after adopting a conure, you come to the conclusion that you don’t need a bigger parrot!

Power supply

Basically, the conure should have daily access to a good ration of feed/kibble (e.g. Tropicane, Lefeber’s, etc.). He should also eat a variety of foods every day (all Food Guide food categories), with the exception of raw potatoes, raw onions, rhubarb, avocado, parsley and chocolate.

Care

Conures also have a bad reputation for being messy. Conures love to clean out their cages by shredding fruit, vegetables and paper from the bottom and pushing it all outside the cage onto our floors and walls. But when you expect it, it’s not so bad! Paradoxically, they’re very clean! Most conures love to bathe in anything that resembles water!

Cage and environment

Energetic by nature, they have a great need to move. They are skilful climbers and fervent chewers. A conure, despite its small size, needs a large cage to expend its energy to its heart’s content. He also needs plenty of toys to shred in close proximity, and a layout that allows him to quench his thirst for climbing. He also needs plenty of time outside his cage to stretch his wings. Without all this, the conure will become bored and undesirable behaviors, such as screaming and biting, will appear.

Place the cage in a lively room where family members gather.
Don’t isolate the bird.
Avoid draughts
Don’t place the cage in front of a window, where the bird will be at the mercy of the sun’s hot rays.

Exercises and toys

The Green-cheeked Conure is a gregarious bird that needs to feel accepted by its group. It’s a very interactive bird, always wanting to be part of the action, whatever the activity in progress. “Ah! Chouette on cuisine! Ah! Chouette we’re cleaning! Ah! Chouette we’re playing Monopoly!” Anything, really anything, can interest him! The more you include him in daily activities around the house, the happier and more emotionally secure he’ll be.

Beneath its clownish appearance, the Green-cheeked Conure is a highly intelligent bird that needs both physical and mental stimulation. To avoid boredom, we must constantly find activities to stimulate them. Conures excel at games that involve emptying and refilling toy boxes. They can also learn a few tricks, such as saying “hello” and “goodbye” by raising their paws.

At rest, the green-cheeked conure may look like a harmless little angel, but don’t be fooled! Once well rested, you could be dealing with a stubborn bird who thinks he can scare the Doberman out of the house. In their heads, conures think they’re the most powerful parrots in the world. You’d better find a way to remind them that they weigh just 70 grams on the scales!

Description

Despite their small size (between 12 and 18 cm), lovebirds are full-fledged members of the parrot family (psittacidae), as evidenced by their hooked beak and the bites that can result. They have a small, round or square tail, unlike parakeets, which have a long, thin tail. On average, they weigh between 45 and 60 grams and have a life expectancy of around 12 years. With the many mutations (over 100,000) found in captivity, it’s practically possible to have an inseparable of the color of your choice. There are 9 different species of lovebird, all native to the African continent.

Character

Despite the fact that each bird is unique and has its own personality, there are certain behavioral characteristics found in most lovebirds.

Active

The primary characteristic of all lovebirds is that they are very active birds. This isn’t a bird that constantly wants to be petted, it wants to move! They require a lot of interaction with other members of their social group, i.e. you and your family. Inseparables often prefer the company of children to that of adults, because of their higher activity levels. Of course, the child has to be responsible enough to play and look after him without hurting him. To keep your ball of energy mentally and physically healthy while you’re away, it’s important to provide plenty of toys and rotate them regularly.

Curious and Stubborn

The inseparable wants to see and understand everything going on in his environment. Nothing scares him, and he’ll insist on exploring everything within his reach! When your inseparable has something on his mind, talking him out of it can be quite a challenge. Despite all the good lessons you can teach him, you’ll always have to keep an eye on him! Patience and tolerance are essential qualities for a good relationship with your pet.

Controller

Let’s face it, the lovebird is probably the cutest and most charming of all little parrots, but beware of this pastel, angelic figure! Despite its small size, the lovebird often thinks it’s a tiger, and if you’re unfortunate enough to show it can impress you, you’ll be in for a lot of trouble with your bird! In the wild, the lovebird lives in a group of several individuals, where each lovebird must find and protect its place within the group. In captivity, his group becomes your family, so he’ll naturally try to take his place. You’ll need to be firm and consistent (yet gentle and calm) in your dealings with him, so that he understands and accepts your role as a responsible member of the household.

Frequently asked questions

Will he learn to talk?

Very few lovebirds learn to talk. They can, however, imitate everyday sounds such as the telephone or microwave. If you’re looking for a bird that talks, the lovebird won’t be a good choice. The lovebird is not a species known for being good at learning to talk, but even with a species that is, such as the African grey, there’s no guarantee that your bird will talk – it all depends on the level of stimulation of the environment in which the bird evolves and the talent of each bird. However, just because it doesn’t talk doesn’t mean it isn’t intelligent. The lovebird is a highly intelligent creature, don’t let its small size fool you.

Does he scream?

Again, don’t be fooled by their size – it’s not representative of the decibel level that can come out of them. Before buying an inseparable, you should be aware that they can be noisy. Some pet shops are now refusing to sell inseparable birds because they are considered undesirable due to their tendency to be noisy. Despite all your good will, some birds will still feel the need to warn their flock at the slightest disturbance, and they’ll do it by screaming! And remember, a noisy bird is often a healthy, happy bird.

Does it bite?

Like all parrots, the inseparable may bite. However, on this point, being small helps to limit the possible injuries resulting from a bite. Inseparable bites rarely pierce the skin to the point of bleeding, but that doesn’t mean they aren’t painful. A bird never bites for nothing; there’s always a reason. If you take the time to study and understand the signals your bird sends you, you’ll be able to prevent and avoid bites.

Is it true that there absolutely has to be two of them?

No, it’s an avian myth or legend that the lovebird can’t be happy as the only bird in your family. Their name, inseparable, helps perpetuate this popular belief. If you look after your lovebird properly, if you allow it the freedom to be a full member of your family, it will focus its attention on you and won’t need another bird partner. However, if you know you won’t have much time a day to devote to him, it’s better to have more than one to avoid boredom.

The inseparable is a bird full of personality that will bring you much joy. They’re little clowns, ready to play non-stop for hours on end. They require a lot of time, patience, tolerance and energy, but they’re well worth it.

Basically, the inseparable is a granivore and needs a good daily ration of seeds without sunflower seeds. If the bird is well socialized and has learned to taste different foods at a young age, it will appreciate just about anything it is given to eat. Beware of toxic foods such as chocolate, avocados, coffee and alcohol. A varied diet based on legumes, cheeses, nuts, cereals, fruit and vegetables will provide him with all the minerals and vitamins he needs, and keep him away from the vet. Chickpeas are particularly popular with all birds. As for walnuts, a walnut is quite a challenge for him, so it’s best to crush them before giving him any.

Care

About once a week during the day, the inseparable might like to bathe in a small dish of water, or simply get him used to the water sprayer to wash his plumage.

Cage and environment

The lovebird is an active bird. The larger the cage, the better (minimum 18” x 18”).

Place the cage in a lively room where family members gather.
Don’t isolate the bird.
Avoid draughts
Don’t place the cage in front of a window, where the bird will be at the mercy of the sun’s hot rays.

Exercises and toys

During the day, while we’re away, the birds need to be able to relax. Toys for small parrots aren’t very expensive, and it’s surprising to find that just about anything can make an interesting toy for a cockatoo.

Keep your small cardboard boxes and fill them with small pieces of wood or anything that can make a noise: your bird will have something to occupy itself with during the day.

Small wooden ladders are also all the rage with these little parrots.

Description

Most people have difficulty associating the name parakeet with the parrot family, yet despite its small size, the waved parakeet is a parrot and has all the attributes of one.

The waved parakeet, despite its apparent fragility, is a bird of robust constitution. In its natural habitat, it is a nomadic bird that can travel long distances (up to 30 kilometers without stopping) in search of water and food in the inland desert regions of Australia. It’s a very sociable little bird, which loves and needs interaction with its social group, even if the latter is made up entirely of humans. The waved parakeet thrives on solitude; it loves to be part of the parade and share in the activities of its beloved humans, and particularly appreciates the attention it gets from training in tricks, a game in which it distinguishes itself with distinction. As for training, the Waved Parakeet is a member of the parrot family and is trained in exactly the same way as its larger congeners.

A budgie can live without a companion as long as you’re available. If your lifestyle often takes you away from home, it would be preferable to provide your bird with one or more companions. Parakeets are very gregarious animals by nature, and cannot tolerate isolation or solitude. In the wild, flocks ranging from twenty to 15,000 birds have been observed. Parakeets need the company of others.

Character

Curious (very), inquisitive, energetic, playful, active, friendly and endearing, it’s very hard to try to find a fault with this perfect little companion; she knows how to take center stage to seduce us and make us fall for her.

Most waved parakeets have a real facility for learning language and excel at imitating ambient noises or other birds in the home, and even wild birds. The budgie has an opinion on everything, and is always telling or “chattering”. Because of this natural predisposition to gossip, it’s very easy to teach him to hold a conversation with you. Surprisingly, the male is more talkative and seems to have an easier time imitating the human voice than the female, which is not to say that the latter is incapable; she just seems a little less inclined to want to perform. The method used to teach the waved parakeet language is the same as that used with all parrots: talk a lot, especially in situations, repeat often, name the objects presented to it and, above all, don’t forget to praise it abundantly and reward it for each of its efforts.

Power supply

The most common mistake is undoubtedly to feed waved parakeets exclusively on grain. In fact, poor nutrition is the leading cause of illness and/or mortality in these small birds in a domestic setting. Obesity is one of the direct consequences of such a high-fat diet. Obesity is one of the direct consequences of such a high-fat diet, and obesity is associated with a number of other nutritional problems that dramatically reduce the life expectancy of these birds. A parakeet fed exclusively on grain has a life expectancy of 4 to 5 years. Like all parrots, parakeets need a varied diet, including fruits, vegetables, cereals and proteins. The more varied its diet, the better off it will be.

Care

Like all parrots, parakeets need to keep their feathers perfectly groomed so they can regulate their body temperature and, of course, fly. Parakeets enjoy a good swim in a shallow container. In the wild, they refresh their plumage by wallowing in grass still soaked with morning dew, or in shallow pools of water. Treat them to a herb bath by shredding vegetable leaves (lettuce, spinach) in a shallow but wide bowl and spraying water over them in fine droplets. Parakeets love this kind of attention.

Cage and environment

The waved parakeet is a very active bird that needs plenty of space to exercise. For a single budgie, a cage 60 to 70 cm wide is a reasonable minimum. Parakeets are not helicopters and fly horizontally; for this reason,

It’s best to choose a cage that’s wide rather than tall. Naturally, the more birds you have, the more suitable the environment… Why not an aviary?

Place the cage in a lively room where family members gather.
Don’t isolate the bird.
Avoid draughts
Don’t place the cage in front of a window, where the bird will be at the mercy of the sun’s hot rays.

Exercises and toys

Toys : As a highly intelligent, dynamic and busy bird, the budgie needs plenty of stimulation. You need to provide them with a wide variety of toys. These little parrots are particularly fond of swings, colorful or shiny toys, as well as noisy toys such as bells or objects with “clinkers”.

Freedom: This very active little parrot needs to stretch its wings several times a day. As soon as the situation allows, open your bird’s cage and enjoy the spectacle of its elegant, precise flight.

Description

It’s a small bird that weighs between 100 and 120 grams, and measures around 25 to 31cm. A small bird with a short tail, it closely resembles a pigeon, which also belongs to the same family. Its plumage comes in a variety of colors, including pale brown, beige and sandy, and its belly is white. There are, however, several color variations, such as albino, creamy ivory, pearl storm, variegated, spotted and many others. They also have a black collar on the nape of the neck, sometimes edged in white. Turtle-doves have ruby-red eyes and a purplish-black beak.

Character

The turtle dove is an endearing bird that can be very gentle when well tamed. It likes to play with its master when the latter has time to spare. It can be curious at times, but not too curious. It’s a calm bird with a very gentle song, too, which is very pleasant to listen to. He likes to take baths, so provide him with a container of shallow water, so he can enjoy himself. But don’t bathe him all the time, or he’ll lose his feathers. He’s a wonderful bird to have around, and won’t disturb your daily routine.

Power supply

The turtle dove is a granivorous and herbivorous bird. Mixed seeds are good for them, but they need a good variety. It also eats fruit and vegetables, and greens such as lettuce. If you could give her insects from time to time as treats, she’d surely be very happy.

Don’t forget to provide water.

Care

To help maintain its plumage, the turtle-dove appreciates the drizzle effect of the water sprayer, which acts like a fine rain. They also enjoy bathing in a dish of water.

Cage and environment

It’s a bird that adapts very well to any lifestyle you give it. It can live very well in a medium-sized cage, as well as in an aviary. The more space a turtledove has, the happier it will be. So make sure you give it the best. If you want to breed other birds with her, it’s always best to take only birds of the same species. As she’s not very good at defending herself, she may not survive living with aggressive birds.

Exercises and toys

The turtle-dove likes to swing and perch at different heights. The turtle-dove is not a bird that likes to destroy its toys; it prefers a fellow bird for entertainment.

The turtle dove is a very interesting bird to adopt. Very easy to live with, it will undoubtedly make you very happy with it.

Description

It measures an average of 32 cm from head to tail and weighs between 80 and 100 grams. In captivity, it can live for an average of 15 to 18 years.

Character

Funny and affectionate, cockatiels are renowned for adapting easily to any lifestyle. Among parrots, they always top the charts for the funniest and most whistling species. This personality trait increases the popularity of this species. He can learn to say a few words, but he’ll mostly focus on whistling. And no, it’s not true that if our parrot whistles, it will never speak! It’s so charming, funny and interesting to watch and hear him perform, so don’t hesitate and teach him to whistle! The male is more gifted than the female when it comes to performing, because in him, it’s an innate behavior to seduce his partner and impress his rivals.

Cockatoo sounds are relatively soft, but the incessant calls of a bird left alone can be very annoying. You should always try to understand the origin of this behavior, if it occurs, and try to eliminate it. Remember that cockatiels are gregarious birds that live in groups. Isolating it in a room or excluding it from family life will only contribute to its insecurity and make it a shrill bird.

These little parrots can be very intelligent. They know how to make themselves understood, even if they don’t use language. To be stroked, the cockatiel will bend its head in front of our fingers. Cockatiels quickly discover that we hear through our ears: they’ll start their favorite melody with all their heart, beak directly in our ears. They have a sixth sense for knowing when we’re leaving and when we’re arriving. We haven’t even got the coat on yet, and our dear bird is perched high up to keep us inside as long as possible. The slightest sound of a key in the lock as soon as we return, or even the sound of the car in the driveway, and we hear him coming out to greet us.

A home with an elegant cockatoo is bound to be full of life, but beware… watch your step! Being foragers, these birds are always on the floor. In the wild, these little parrots find their food and water on the ground, so it’s normal for them to wander around on the floor, unaware that they can easily be run over. So be careful!

The cockatiel parakeet is not a destructive bird, which undoubtedly contributes to its popularity in our homes. However, it does love to chew on books and cardboard, so be careful with your bookshelves!

He’s a bird who needs to stretch his legs, sprinting down the corridor to land upside down, wings open and tail fanning! This seems to be a very rewarding activity for him, although difficult to understand for us who only seek the comfort of a good couch!

Trying to catch a cockatiel that’s decided it’s not bedtime yet can be breathtaking! You have to be cunning, but unfortunately for us this is a quality that cockatiels also possess. Being a prey animal, parrots don’t fly in the dark.

The calopsitte is an easy bird to tame, and don’t be fooled by those who will casually tell you to starve it to make it easier to tame. Daily attention and a desire for inclusion on your part will suffice. Cockatiels, like most parrots, are very curious and always want to take part in what’s going on around them.

Because of its great sociability, the cockatiel parakeet is not a bird that seeks to squabble with other birds or animals in the family. What’s more, it’s not territorial, which makes living together much easier. It can, however, become protective of a particular area, which it considers its nest, during its warm periods.

There’s one behavior of our cockatoo that may unsettle a new owner, but is nevertheless normal: this parrot spends about a third of its day cleaning itself. This behavior is essential for keeping feathers shiny and waterproof. When the bird cleans itself, it secretes an oil from the uropygial gland at the base of the tail; it spreads this oil over its feathers. Cockatiels and all cockatoos have the particularity of being “powdery”; in fact, it’s quite surprising how much dust can come out of this little pile of feathers when he dares to shake himself. Avoid putting Coco near your computer: it’s not a good match!

Power supply

Basically, the cockatiel is a granivore and needs a good daily ration of seeds without sunflower seeds. If the bird is well socialized and has learned to taste different foods at a young age, it will appreciate just about anything it is given to eat. Beware of toxic foods such as chocolate, avocados, coffee and alcohol. A varied diet based on legumes, cheeses, nuts, cereals, fruit and vegetables will provide him with all the minerals and vitamins he needs, and keep him away from the vet. Chickpeas are particularly popular with all birds. As for walnuts, a walnut is quite a challenge for him, so it’s best to crush them before giving him any.

Care

Once a week or so, during the day, cockatiels might like to bathe in a small dish of water, or simply get them used to the spray bottle to wash their feathers, since they tend to dust their feathers.

Cage and environment

Cockatiels are active birds. The larger the cage, the better (minimum 18” x 18”).

Place the cage in a lively room where family members gather.
Don’t isolate the bird.
Avoid draughts
Don’t place the cage in front of a window, where the bird will be at the mercy of the sun’s hot rays.

Exercises and toys

Keep your small cardboard boxes and fill them with small pieces of wood or anything that can make a noise: your bird will have something to occupy itself with during the day. Small wooden ladders are also a big hit with these little parrots.

Have you just adopted an animal?

If you need any help or simply have any questions, please don’t hesitate to contact us: